Who knows how and when these things start. Someone decides they want to do a little canoeing and the idea grows. Suddenly four grown men find themselves on a four day trip from Gamble Lake to Mowat Landing in the great expanse of Lady Evelyn-Smoothwater Wilderness Park in Northern Ontario.
 Bridge at Centre Falls |
Earlier in the summer Reg had asked if I would be interested in replacing a friend who might not be able to come up North for the trip. I jumped at the chance and the rest as they say is history. Delbert Peters, Reg Holdsworth, Jim Donoghue and I found ourselves comparing camping equipment, discussing food lists, and poring over maps in preparation for our summer adventure. Recommended reading for the trip is Hap Wilson's Temagami Canoe Routes. He lists the distance as 60 kilometres and rates the difficulty as Advanced Novice (see page 23). He also mentions under comments that there are some very difficult portages--exactly Mr. Wilson. We encountered one couple who told us that they had canoed for years and that the portage at Helen Falls was one of the most treacherous they had ever experienced. The longest portage was 795 metres and it had all of us suggesting ways to lighten the load for our next trip. If you have a canoe and wish to enter areas where portaging is required then a canoe fitted with a yoke is a must. It is actually far easier for one person to carry a canoe on their back stepping over large boulders and fallen trees. Two people just seem to find it a little too awkward. A lighter craft is also a plus. Many of the newer canoes are constructed from light weight materials as even 10 or 15 pounds less on your shoulders is substantial during some of the more arduous portages. |
The trek began just south of Gamble Lake where we dipped our paddles into the river just below the bridge. Rose and Ann drove us 60 plus kilometres Southwest of Elk Lake. The poor condition of some of these back roads would be an omen of things to come. However, we certainly felt rested and relaxed as we began to paddle on Sunday afternoon. |
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What we quickly discovered was this trip required more portaging than paddling. How unforgiving nature is but what a great teacher if one survives. When Hap Wilson says the portages are difficult--believe him. We also realized that we had taken too much-- particularly food. The first two days were spent quenching unbelievable thirsts and food although important was just not a priority.
Portages meanwhile,do have distinct advantages. One significant portage usually eliminates all motorized boats and casts one into a veritable wilderness.
Other helpful materials were topographic maps of the area available at the Highway Book Store near the Cobalt turnoff on highway 11 and the Ministry of Natural Resources (MNR)for the Temagami Area. There was the odd discrepancy between these materials but nothing significant.
The weather was very cooperative but sunshine also means working up an incredible thirst. It didn't take long to realize that one tiny water filter/purifier was going to have one tough time keeping up with our liquid needs. By the time the filter clogged up, I was already dipping straight into the clear waters of Lady Evelyn. Yes, yes, tell me about the dangers of unfiltered water and I'll explain the dangers of being dehydrated.
Naturally we boiled our water but that doesn't solve the problem of quenching summer thirst. In hindsight it is amazing that we even contemplated carrying drinking water considering the exhausting portages. Certainly none of us is any the worse for drinking the water and it helped us appreciate just how important it is to respect keeping the water clean.
 Jim and Del in the Hammocks at Katherine Lake |
Original intentions were to climb Maple Mountain but even before Reg wrenched his knee, we had decided that Maple Mountain would have to be climbed in a subsequent trip. The most spectacular view had to be Centre Falls where we camped almost at the edge of this fabulous cataract. It is hard to put into words how one feels rocking in a hammock to the music of falling water. Jim and Reg did suggest to Del however, that the next time he set up the hammock, he might not want to attach it to a tree with a hornet's nest. The photo on the left is of Jim and Del overlooking the more tranquil waters of Katherine Lake. It was the first time I had tried a hammock and I would highly recommend it. Finding a nice comfortable chair or bed to relax in is always important in the wilderness. In fact I have come to believe that one of the great inventions of modern society is a comfortable easy chair. I am tempted to open up my own hammock business for campers. Centre Falls also featured a natural water slide which we all gave a try. It required a quick body check at the end as it also was a favourite spot for leeches. |
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It's amazing what becomes important on such trips. The yellow plastic P's attached to the trees and signifying a portage became a welcome sight despite the fact they also meant hard work straight ahead. And the number 795 became a buzzword for anything difficult. It is difficult to pick the most beautiful part of our trip although the human fascination with moving water would qualify Helen Falls, Centre Falls and Frank Falls under this category. As treacherous as the portage was at Helen Falls, we were rewarded with an incredible view just below the falls and a great site on the opposite side of the river for camping. Helen Falls was followed by rocky section of the river that we opted to track. Tracking is great on hot days and although one normally uses ropes, we often plunged right into the water to cool off simply hanging from the bow or stern of the canoe. Tracking was always very relaxing as it involved no unpacking and repacking of gear into the canoes. It also provided an excuse to cool off on a hot day. |
 Reg Portaging at Lower End of Helen Falls |
By the time of our arrival at Frank's Falls (an extremely short portage by the way)one becomes rapidly aware that the wilderness has been left behind. Just below the falls we were greeted by a number of fishing boats on the lake. From here we made very good progress up Sucker Gut Lake and managed to catch a glimpse of Maple Mountain with its fire tower covered by a slight haze. By mid afternoon we had set up camp at the Obisaga Narrows on Lady Evelyn Lake and were cooling off in the water.
Thursday morning we had started off by 8AM hoping to escape the midday sun. The water was remarkably calm and we soon found ourselves passing the eskers where I had camped only three summers before. By ten thirty we stopped on an island within eyesight of the Mattawapike River. After a quick snack of crackers and cheese and subsequent swim, we started towards the Mattawapike Dam on the last leg of our journey.
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Only an hour and a half from our final portage a motor boat slowed so as not to swamp us. We were pleasantly surprised to see Wes Hoover at the helm accompanied by Dan Oulette. We couldn't believe our good fortune when having inquired about a phone at Mowat Landing, Dan offered us the use of his cell phone. How nice to hear Rose's voice at home and know that someone would be there for us at Mowat's Landing to whisk us back to the comfort of home. |
